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Plastic containers

B

b23ball23

New member
I see most people keep corns in clear plastic conatiners, this seems better than glass aquaria

anyone have the make, brand, and size of what you use to house adult corns???
i really dont know what type of plastic conatianer will work.

How do you attatch the heat tape?

pics would be great!!



BEN

GOD BLESS
 
They're Sterilite brand containers...that's about all I can tell you though since I don't use them myself. Although I THINK you can still use a regular UTH instead of heat tape. Don't quote me on that though...
 
I have both Sterilite and Rubbermaid containers. The Rubbermaids are slightly more expensive(still cheap) but are more sturdy and have better locking lids, IMO. I use 6qt for smaller hatchlings, 12qt for the larger hatchlings/juveniles and the oldest pair I have are 03's that I have in 31 qt Rubbermaids.
I believe you can use a UTH with them as long as you have a buffer. So far I haven't needed an added heat source because of my warm locale. And I will be using heat tape when I build a rack just as a cost/convenience factor.
Hope that helps a little.:)
 
ok, thanks

Uth-sounds easier to deal with
what do you mean by buffer for the UTH?

now where can you buy the steril/ rubbermia containers, i really havent noticed them around.


BEN
 
b23ball23 said:
ok, thanks

Uth-sounds easier to deal with
what do you mean by buffer for the UTH?

now where can you buy the steril/ rubbermia containers, i really havent noticed them around.


BEN
Click to expand...

Buffer= something to keep from direct contact with the plastic. From what I have read, it is usually not a problem, but I personally would be more comfortable having at least a little airflow between the UTH and tub.
You can get them at any WalMart:)
 
b23ball23 said:
ok, thanks

Uth-sounds easier to deal with
what do you mean by buffer for the UTH?
Click to expand...

Meaning don't have the UTH on as hot as it will go and jam it right up against the container. There are a couple ways to do this.

You could buy/build a dimmer or rheostat and use it to control the heat. Of you could stick the UTH to a ceramic tile and just elevate the tub above it to control the heat. I personally use that method even with my 20L aquarium because I can easily switch the UTH to a new viv if necessary (which I've done twice now), and I dont' have to worry about breaking it by peeling it off of the glass.
 
I love the Sterilite sweater boxes! These are the best on the market IMHO. They are good quality, very inexpensive, available in quantity at any Target store, and they have maximum floor space. (There is almost no tapering in the #1754 and #1756 models.) Plus the 15qt (#1754) and the 32qt (#1756) are the same height, so you could choose to use two 15qt boxes on a shelf instead of one 32qt without needing to adjust the shelf heights. And that's a bonus!

And I use these directly on top of my Flexwatt. (Although I do cover the Flexwatt with foil tape. This protects the Flexwatt from scratching while helping to distribute heat in a wider area. No three inch limitation.)

I would stay away from rheostats or dimmers. And stay away from the cheap thermostats too. Get a quality thermostat instead. The quality thermostat may cost you around $100, but the peace of mind is worth the price. Just think of it as a $100 insurance policy.

The rheostat/dimmer units are just too dangerous. (IMHO) It is very easy to accidentally cook an animal with one of these units. And the cheap thermostats aren't much safer. Seriously. Spend the money on a quality thermostat. I promise that you won't regret it.

Chris
 
i was told to use a heating pad... like humans use for themselves. this way you can set it in low and not worry about it getting too hot.

i'm making flannel covers (from a few layers of flannel for added thickness/heat control) for mine when i get my snakes (coming sooooooooooooon) so i can wash the covers easily. also the heating pad itself is plastic so easy to clean. the breeder i'm purchasing them from recommends i put on two flannel covers... one more open so the snake can crawl in if they want to. ;)
 
recycling goddess said:
i was told to use a heating pad... like humans use for themselves. this way you can set it in low and not worry about it getting too hot.
Click to expand...

I'm not too fond of the MacGyver-style heating pad method. And I don't really trust heating devices that only give three choices for temperature -- too cool, too warm, and deep fried.

Personally, I would be happier and more at ease with something designed specifically for reptiles.


Chris
 
recycling goddess said:
i was told to use a heating pad... like humans use for themselves. this way you can set it in low and not worry about it getting too hot.

i'm making flannel covers (from a few layers of flannel for added thickness/heat control) for mine when i get my snakes (coming sooooooooooooon) so i can wash the covers easily. also the heating pad itself is plastic so easy to clean. the breeder i'm purchasing them from recommends i put on two flannel covers... one more open so the snake can crawl in if they want to. ;)
Click to expand...

Uh.....

IMO, that's some very bad advice. Human heating pads are not meant to be left on 24 hours a day, each and every day. They also have hot spots and do not distribute heat uniformly.

Reptile heating mats are made for a reason.
 
i never thought about that. no problem it'll cost the same to do either method after all :) i'll attach the UTH like you all suggested ;)

thanks for the feedback!
 
I don't know if they have a Container Store near you (that's seriously what it's called). They have a clear plastic container with a snap-on lid that has a rubber gasket. So there is NO way a snake could escape or even sit up between the lid and the container. I use it and like it a lot. But it is expensive.

As far as heating - I don't think you want airflow between the cage bottom and the heat pad. That would kill off most of your heat before it even reaches the tank. I do like to keep something in between the pad and the tank, though for heat distribution and such. I just use old junk mail.
Like I said in another thread - a reptile heat pad usually only reaches 100 degrees. That will not melt plastic. It probably won't even melt wax, for that matter.

Everyone is always so scared that their heat pad is going to burn something. But measure the temperature of your hand. It's probably close to 90 degrees. And under your tongue - 98.6 When you have a fever you don't burst into flames. *end rant*
 
Slippery Ernie said:
As far as heating - I don't think you want airflow between the cage bottom and the heat pad. That would kill off most of your heat before it even reaches the tank. I do like to keep something in between the pad and the tank, though for heat distribution and such. I just use old junk mail.
Click to expand...

I don't know if it's this way with all UTHs or not, but on the ZooMed ones anyway it actually says on the package that you should leave room for the heater to "breathe". I don't know if it's for safety reasons or what though...

And regarding the human heating pads, here's a thread I started last week with some nice pictures added to it. http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26038
 
When you have a fever you don't burst into flames. *end rant*
Click to expand...

No because your body is still thinking its cold, so even if you're 104, you're still piling on the blankets. =D

Anyway..human heating pads aren't recommended for the reasons that Joe gave. They're meant to be used occasionally, not all of the time. Plus the temp gradiation usually isn't that accurate, nor safe.

Plus, why would you put it INTO your tank? That's just asking for trouble. Not to mention a lot more cleanup when the snake poops or potential regurges on it, and it's 'cooked on'. :puke01:

UTH's are relatively inexpensive and don't get that hot, but they are meant to go under the tank, as the name implies. I usually don't ever stick mine directly on, instead I attach them to a ceramic tile that I place under the aquarium/container. It has an air buffer zone of a couple of centimeters, which keeps the bottom of the container getting too warm for the snake.

As for plastic containers..I use mainly Sterilites, and if you plan on using any of these, put them in a rack, don't waste your time with lids. Listen to experience here. I've now got 4 MIA snakes, all out of Sterilite tubs with lids. The lids only latch on the ends, and if you have a warm room, the lids are easily bendable just enough from the inside for the snakes to slither out.

I like the Sterilites for the reasons someone else described. They're all modular, most are the same height and width, so you can put them in a rack interchangeably, or if lids are used, stacked. Plus, the plastic on them is a lot more clear than the Rubbermaids tend to be, not to mention un-colored.

I must have a lot of prissy girls in my town, all of the Rubbermaid stuff I can find is either opaque or pink/blue with sparklies in it.

I tend to get larger tubs than most people keep their adults in. I'm not sure of the model # anymore, but they're 3ft long by 18" wide. Some are nearly 20" tall, while others are around 5" tall. But the adults seem to be the most comfortable in them with the room.

I have some Iris shoeboxes and love them. Very clear plastic, sturdy. And I found them at Costco for $14 for 12 boxes, which doesn't seem too bad.

But all in all, if you're not going to utilize a rack, don't get plastic boxes. They look extremely tacky, have been totally unsecure for me..and for the amount I've spent on replacements I could have bought nice cages instead.
 
one of the tanks we have... has an UTH on it already. it's a 20 gallon so we were going to put my son's corn snake into it.

it's already attached to the bottom on the outside... will it be too hot with just aspen shavings on top?

also, do you put the hiding box on the heated area or not?
 
You'll have to measure the temp under the aspen with the probe touching the glass to know for sure. I'll be honest though, I've never had a corn have an issue with that. But then again, I don't physically attach them. I like to be able to remove them if I need to without destroying them. But I don't remember it ever getting above 87 on the glass under the aspen.

Some people use that Repti-carpet on the bottom, and then put the aspen on top, so that the snakes don't touch the glass directly if they should happen to burrow.

As for hides, I usually put them about halfway on the UTH area, and then a cool hide somewhere else. And then take the temp of the area inside the warm hide, and adjust it as necessary to either more on top of the UTH for warmer or more off of it for cooler.

Its definitely not rocket science by any means. Just play around with it till you get it to work for your home conditions. =)
 
thanks for the help guys

The thermostat- is that to measure the temp inside the cage, or to measure the temp the pad puts out. Do UTH's built for reptiles even need rheostats/ thermostats?

I really dont know what you guys mean by ceramic tiles for ventilation???
anyone have a pic??

Anyone reccomend a rack system that would be suitable for the plastic conatiners that isnt too expensive?????

BEN

GOD BLESS
 
i'm guessing they are talking about a ceramic tile like you probably have in your shower. you can buy them at a home depot etc. very very inexpensive.
 
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