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Question about Repti-Temp Rheostats

Kingetula

IT'S GOOD TO BE KING
New member, first post... haha I feel like I am on a radio sports talk show.

I want to get one of these, Repti-Temp Rheostats. Now the one I have seen only have 2 outlets and I need 10. I read some can handle 500W so I am asking, to save money can I hook up a power supply strip like people use for computers or electronics. Let me see if I can find a picture....

Something like this.

432576.jpg



Can I plug one of these into a Rheostats and controll the temp to 10 cages this way?
 
You'd want to plug the power strip into the rehostat and then the heat sources into the power strip. Remember that the rheostat sends constant electricity to the heat source, and therefore temps can increase and decrease dependent on the room temperature. It works like a dimmer switch. (No offense meant if you already know how a rheostat works!)

D80
 
I'll have to look again but I think I read somewhere that the heat pads put out a constant 100 F. I always used heat lamps for my kings and never had a problem with regurgitating but after reading that Corns are nocturnal, I would rather give them the option to hide and be warm from underneath, I also think this may be best for my kings as well.
 
Sorry to post right after my above post but I could not find the (EDIT) button so I am guessing that feature is off here.

Anyway, here is the description of the heat pad I am thinking of getting and using.

"Europe's #1 heat mat for more than a decade is now available from T-Rex Products.

Cobra Heat Mats are made from incredibly reliable, accurate copper elements that provide uniform even heat distribution.

Designed to be used in or out of terrariums, these mats are designed to operate at a constant 100 degrees fahrenheit".

Thanks for answering my question, I will get these and use a power strip. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't going to have electrical issues or whatever.
 
UTH's do give out a 100+ degree heat. While it states on the package it's 100, it can be a bit higher or a bit lower. I've measured a couple of mine at 110 at times. The thing with the rheostat is that you will be sending a specific amount of electrical current to the power strip, which in turn sends it to the heat pads. Depending on room temp, you may measure 80 degrees on one heat pad and 90 on another depending on the differences within the heat pad itself. Just a heads up so you know that all your heat pads will not be the same temperature and that will also vary depending on the room temperature.

D80
 
so what do you use to check the temp, one of those aquarium temperature strips that stick to the glass?
 
Kingetula said:
so what do you use to check the temp, one of those aquarium temperature strips that stick to the glass?

A thermometer with a probe. A indoor/outdoor type or you can look around and buy one at a pet store. What you stating doesn't sound safe to me. But ...
Corns only need heat up to 85 degrees on the warm side, low 70 on the cool side.
 
It also depends on what brand heat pad you use. I have some Exo-Terra mats on some of my tanks and they can get up to 130' unregulated.

I agree with Lenny. What you are trying doesn't sound safe. Not only that, but I have had the repti temp rheostat, and they didn't get my temps cool enough. It kept them up into the low 90s, which is too hot for corns.

What I use is a plug in lamp dimmer that I got at Wal-mart. Each tank has its own. I also got my digital thermometers with probes there. Again, each tank has its own.

King snakes also need night time. You are right that heat mats will be better for them.
 
I'm starting to wonder if I need heat for these guys and my kings now. My room stays around 80 to 83 F in the summer, it's the hottest part of the house as it faces the sun most of the day. The winter time is when I would need heat, but the temp you say these pads can reach is pretty scary and the fact that rheostats may not keep the temp low enough makes me wonder if I might be wasting my money.

Maybe I should stick with heat lamps, I feel like I am a square one again. I am open to more ideas.
 
BeckyG said:
What I use is a plug in lamp dimmer that I got at Wal-mart. Each tank has its own. I also got my digital thermometers with probes there. Again, each tank has its own.

.

Sorry, it took me a minute to figure out that you use heating pads and use a plug in lamp dimmer for them. Am I right? I'll go to wall Mart and look for these if so.
 
Usually during the summer I turn off the uth.
The use of a heat lamps for corns is "frown upon" here too. But you will have to works this out before you need it. Have you done a search a rack system yet.
 
Lenny,

Rack system, if this means shelving then yes I have that all taken care of.

I went to Wall Mart, no luck but I did find them at Home Depot. $10.57 for one. The total price would be about the same if I got five 2 outlet Repti-Temp Rheostats. About the plug in light dimmer, how low will these get the heating pad temps? I'm just kind of shocked that the ones made for herp use only gets them down to 90F. A bigger shock is the constant temp of 100F + they put out, you would think they would make one that has constant temps more towards what a snake/lizards need.

About this thermometer, do you have a link to what they look like and also I was wonder how you test the heating pad under the aquarium? Do you lay the probe on the aquarium glass floor? I'd like to know more about this.
 
I found them in the small electrical section, with the light switches and outlets and stuff like that. The plug in lamp dimmer can get the pad as low as just a few degrees above room temp, and as high as full power.

Yes, I lay the probe directly on the glass over the heat pad. You want to check the hottest spot the snake can access to avoid the possibility of burns. There is no need to permanently affix it. Yes, the snake will move it around, but just put it back.

I don't have a picture at the moment of the thermometer, but someone posted it a while back. Maybe if you search the forums, you can find it.
 
you can solve your problem by buying one of these cost around $ 30.00

link to the unit

http://www.reptilesupply.com/product.php?products_id=819

rp236.jpg


you can plug the electrical strip into this unit and then plug your heat pads into the strip it will handle 1,000 watts has a dial so that you can set the temp you want and also has a probe which you would place in a control viv or near the heat source...

The are called direct line voltage thermostats they work just like the one in your house basically the probe measures a temp once that temp is hit on the dial it turns off when the ambient air temp gets cooler than the set temp it clicks back on....

if you really want to do it right you may want to step up to a helix or a spyder robotics unit!

www.spyderrobotics.com

www.helixcontrols.com

Hope this helps

MCHouse
www.Nightbreedreptiles.com
 
OK, I hope I can find the picture but being new I feel like it is a needle in a hay stack right now. I thought the heat pads went under the aquarium? I was thinking of electrical tapping it instead of using the sticky stuff it comes with and attaching it to the bottom of the aquarium. I like the idea of using the light dimmer, it's going to cause me to cut a few more lawns but I want the best for my snakes. My friend is going to by some of my heat lamps so it shouldn't be so bad.

I know with our duck incubator that we had to warm it up and check it for at least 2 days before we put the eggs in, this was to make sure the heat and humidity did not fluctuate. I'm going to do the samething with the heating pads but I'm going to have to use an empty aquarium and once I get the temp right move it over to my king's cages.

I feel pretty happy with how things are going to work now, thanks everyone.
 
Yes the heat mat does go on the outside of the tank, but I measure the glass right over it. That is the hottest spot your snake will be able to contact.

Another alternative is to get a piece of ceramic tile and stick the heat mat to that, then set your tank over it. You'll need to elevate the opposite side to make it level, though.
 
Lennycorn said:
A thermometer with a probe. A indoor/outdoor type or you can look around and buy one at a pet store.

Isn't the probe round? if I set that on the aquarium floor 1/2 of it would be in the air. It just seems that it wouldn't be accurate. Seems to be the way it is done but can you understand how that doesn't seem correct? I mean the probe is meant to be outside in ambient air, right?
 
Kingetula said:
Isn't the probe round? if I set that on the aquarium floor 1/2 of it would be in the air. It just seems that it wouldn't be accurate. Seems to be the way it is done but can you understand how that doesn't seem correct? I mean the probe is meant to be outside in ambient air, right?

How much difference do you think the air temperature would be approximately 1/8th of an inch (or less) above the glass?! :)

D80
 
I was thinking of electrical tapping it instead of using the sticky stuff it comes with and attaching it to the bottom of the aquarium.

This is what I was thinking of doing, too. I don't want to waste the sticky that comes with it, as I understand it's hard (or impossible?) to get off again. And I don't think I'm going to even try to find a piece of ceramic tile the right size. *cough*

I have that same doodad, but the dial is different--maybe it's a different brand...same idea, though. But it doesn't have actual temperatures on it, just a range of oranges. Kind of annoying. I've not tried setting it up, though, to see. (I still have a wait for the actual snake.)

*hijacks thread*

I was wondering, what's the best place for the humidity gauge? And are mid-70%s OK? Because that's what it always is here. :) Well, outside it's in the 90%s all summer. :D
 
Drizzt80 said:
How much difference do you think the air temperature would be approximately 1/8th of an inch (or less) above the glass?! :)

D80


I guess not much but I did find one of these things online. It looks like the probe sticks to a window, I understand now how it works if this is the kind you guys use? My question is, wouldn't the reptile strip thermometers that stick to the glass have the same affect if stuck on the glass where the UTH is? Seems like they do the samething but one is $8.00 and digital well the other is $2.00 and is a plastic strip.
 
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