ButtersCorns4life
New member
When should I start Brumation? is it at the end or start of November?
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When to Brumate
- Thread starter ButtersCorns4life
- Start date
ButtersCorns4life
New member
Thank you. Should I start feeding them a lot now?
Before chilling a snake, I hold it at activity temperature for two weeks without food to get the gut empty. A full belly can kill a brumating snake. Then I reduce the temperature to room temperature (68-70 F) to harden the snake. Then I drop the temperature to around 55-60 F for the brumation period.
Figure out when to begin actual brumation, and you will know when to stop feeding.
Figure out when to begin actual brumation, and you will know when to stop feeding.
ButtersCorns4life
New member
Thanks for the advise.
Drizzt80
Dakota Corns
I would recommend reading Kathy Love's section(s) on breeding in either of her books. If you follow her recommendations to a "T" your first time through, you should get along with flying colors. Take the following however you'd like, but with these two questions, I'm a little worried that you're nowhere near ready to breed yet. Just my humble opinion though I'm sure.
Your welcome.
D80
Chip
ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒ&
I typically go December 1st to Feb 14th. I'll pull thin males up 2 weeks early to get some meals in them, especially ones that have a tendency to go off feed when in the mood for love. If you just have a pair of corns, it isn't necessary. I also notice you're 14. You do know you're gonna have to come up with the scratch for a lot of cages, heat, and frozen pinkies!
onelifetolive45
Too many to choose from!!
Good call, besides the cages, heat, and pinkies, do you have a venue to sell these animals? You got a lit of time ahead of you and a lot to think about before jumping into breeding. I do not in any way want to discourage you, just make sure you have ever thing thought out first. Best of Luck
ButtersCorns4life
New member
Well for the past year : since November : I have been working at a store, and I have some cash (about 400-500 dollars depending one the prices) to spend on some cages, heaters, bedding, and food. (most of the money I made is in Savings/college funds. So if I get tight on money, I could pull some from my savings.)
I have 14 friends that really want a snake, and their parents are perfectly OK with it. If/when I do have some "left over" snakes, I could always keep them and sell them in the future. I dont know exactly how I'm going to deal with ALL the hatchlings.
The reason I asked what time I should start to brumate, is because I guess I'm just nervous, and I don't want to screw up the first clutch.
Thank you for all of your help, and if I have any other questions, I know where to come.
ButtersCorns4life
New member
ps. I would have quoted onelifetolive45 as well, but I don't know how to quote multiple posts... thanks though.
thanks though.
ButtersCorns4life
New member
Oh, I see, and then you delete what you dont need? ok, thanks.
As for egg binding, that isn't that common is it? Obviously there is a chance that it could happen, but there is also a chance that the female will produce a whole bunch of slugs. As long as I keep the temps right, and feed her when I'm supposed to, it will reduce the chances of it happening right?
Iguanagirl8662
Katie
Egg binding can happen no matter how well you take care of your snakes. You said you had $400-500 to care for the hacthlings, well that won't be enough. Say you have 14 babies, thats 14 tanks you need, 14 heat pads, 14 thermomstats and thermometers, 14 water dishes, atleast 14 hides, 14 pinkies every 5 days, bedding or you can go buy a rack which will cost a $100or more. It isn't cheap to breed. I spent $20 a week on my hatchlings just for food since June and still haven't found homes for all of them. Then if your female gets egg bound god knows how much that will cost. It cost me over $700 for my egg bound Iguana. You should really wait awhile and do a lot more research on breeding.
cyclone
New member
Dude all you need is a 20 gallon tank for all the offspring, just be sure to feed them seperatly. If you put in alot of hides there should not be a problem. I keep all my offspring in a large tank with multiple hides and a hole lot a greenery, I use Coco fibre bedding so they can borrow atleast 2 inches. The most I ever had in one tank was 34, until I sold them off and they did fine all eggs that hatched lived, I have been doing that for the past 8 yrs. Ya things could go wrong but depending on how you take care of them depends on how many survive. Find a good mouse guy, that gives deals on quanteties. It should only cost you less then $200 for the tank, bedding, hides, greenery, heatpad, and water bowls. Just shop at the Dollar Store you can find anything there. Good luck.
P.S. I was once told that you could not keep two kings together, but now I know that is wrong. As long as they are well feed they can be housed together just like corn snakes. Many will poo poo this but corn snakes do well with others, you can also put them in with Bull, gopher, and pine snakes. As long as they are well feed. About the kings I have 5 cali kings living together for the past 2 yrs and nothing has ever happend.
Good luck with your endavor.
P.S. I was once told that you could not keep two kings together, but now I know that is wrong. As long as they are well feed they can be housed together just like corn snakes. Many will poo poo this but corn snakes do well with others, you can also put them in with Bull, gopher, and pine snakes. As long as they are well feed. About the kings I have 5 cali kings living together for the past 2 yrs and nothing has ever happend.
Good luck with your endavor.
UniqueSnakes
The Diffused Team!!!
you don't really need 14 tanks,14 head pads and so on......however I do agree with feeding them every 5 days unless you actually give them or sell them right away...you'll be okay
TandJ
Ole' Stoic Viper...
Well each to there own.. I have to much invested in the group to even consider taking that chance.. I don't suggest co habbing to a new person in the hobby, imho its not worth the stress , but I likely have more tied up than any sane person should..
Regards.. Tim of T and J
Iguanagirl8662
Katie
Well you don't necessarilly need 14 tanks or heat pads, but if anything happens that's on you. I'm just saying what I think is best and what I would do; I would seperate them and have some sort of heat source, but everyone is different so if you choose not to that's your choice.
If you do decide to breed then I wish you luck and hopefully nothing bad will happen and everything will be fine.
ButtersCorns4life
New member
Well I think that I would just get a few large tupperware containers and a REALLY tight fitting lid. Wouldn't that work? I mean, at the age they are, I could keep a few of them together in one cage.
AND I know that I would need as many lights and heaters as I have cages. But what type of heater would I use if I did use tupperware?
And as a birthday present, I am getting a huge order of mice from either the mouse factory/rodentpro. (I'll need to wait to order them though...) So I dont really need to really worry about food.
AND I know that I would need as many lights and heaters as I have cages. But what type of heater would I use if I did use tupperware?
And as a birthday present, I am getting a huge order of mice from either the mouse factory/rodentpro. (I'll need to wait to order them though...) So I dont really need to really worry about food.
ghosthousecorns
Well-known member
If you want to keep individual records, it's next to impossible to do so with multiple snakes per enclosure. How do you know which one it was if you find a regurge in the cage? What about the fact that after each feeding you will be putting snakes together that have the smell of food about them and risk a cannibalism? What if the presence of cagemates is so intimidating to a smaller hatchling that it doesn't want to eat at all?
I keep the clutches together right after hatching, but only until they have their first shed and I am ready to offer them food. It is not that difficult to heat multiple enclosures if you are creative. I have a hatchling rack I made with aluminum shelving from a hardware store and it's heated with a repti-heat cable controlled by a lamp dimmer. Bowls and hides can be easily made out of TP rolls and plastic party cups. Containers are not that expensive if you buy glad entree trays with lids or inexpensive sterilites. It's a small investment and the peace of mind you gain by not cohousing is priceless.
I keep the clutches together right after hatching, but only until they have their first shed and I am ready to offer them food. It is not that difficult to heat multiple enclosures if you are creative. I have a hatchling rack I made with aluminum shelving from a hardware store and it's heated with a repti-heat cable controlled by a lamp dimmer. Bowls and hides can be easily made out of TP rolls and plastic party cups. Containers are not that expensive if you buy glad entree trays with lids or inexpensive sterilites. It's a small investment and the peace of mind you gain by not cohousing is priceless.
cyclone
New member
Like I said I have been doing such for yrs and I have a method that works. I never put them back into the same enclosuer after eating they wait for a couple of hours before joining. Regures happen but the snake gives signs that it regured, if you know what to look out for you can spot it. Room is the most important thing, if you have room to build a large shelve then great if not you have to do what you can. All my snakes are housed together They have been for 8 yrs. The reptile Zoo that is close houses all their snakes together aswel. They have been open for 15 yrs and never has there been a problem.
If you have never done so you really cant comment on what could happen, now can you. Your not talking from experiance your talking from your opinion not what did happen to you.
I am talking from experiance and yes you sure can house more than one corn per tank. Corns are not canabalistic by nature, so they will mostly never eat a cage mate. I have seen pics of baby corns that ate their mates but I dont know of the reason behind it. You need to understand the reason before you judge.