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A sounds almost like popping when being handled

TwinBlades said:
To everyone who hasn't been following this post. Desertstrike is not the one who put that snake in this condition, just the one who's got to fix it. if you don't have anything helpful or supportive to say, post it elsewhere.
my thanks and support to all of those who are helping. wish I knew enough about this condition to assist.
Click to expand...

*passes out*
Thank you, Twin, I can't thank you enough for the support.
All I'm trying to do is get lil M back to her full health, but it seems sometimes people think I got her this way.
 
Desertstrike said:
She's been checked, its not an RI.
But on the note of raising the vivarium temp. how would I do that? I have one heat mat, which seems addiquate - I need to get a thermometer as well but...we are measuring in F not C right X) n00b question, but doesn't ever hurt to check
Click to expand...

Checked for RI by who is the important question here? You stating the puffing, clicking, and jaw gaping are all CLASSIC signs of RI. If it is still eating at all at this point, it is because it is still in the earlier stages (hopefully).

The fact that you are asking about how to make a sufficient thermogradient and don't have a thermometer or temp probe isn't too promising with regards to the setup being optimum/sufficient either.

Yes, high 80's F, not celsius. You need to monitor it accurately on both ends of the enclosure. one far end needs to be in the high 80's F on the cages FLOOR SURFACE (not above in the air), and the opposite far end ambient air temp can be 70's. But right now you have to MAKE SURE it stays in enough warmth as I mentioned to help the snake's natural metabolism fight the on-coming infection.

Be VERY careful about heating the cage and the whole thing becoming TOO HOT and killing your snake. You have to put the heat mat under a small portion of the far end and monitor the temps accurately before the snake is placed inside. Right now though, it should be forced to stay in the warmer 80's as I mentioned........but use caution and do not assume what the temps are. I cannot stress this enough. It all depends on the material of the cage, amount of ventilation it has, the size of the cage, and outside ambient temps of the cage as to how to tweek it to achieve this. It is far more difficult to achieve a wide thermogradient in a small enclosure.

Anyway, I'm only trying to help your snake with all this stuff.......good luck!


cheers, ~Doug
 
DMong said:
Checked for RI by who is the important question here? You stating the puffing, clicking, and jaw gaping are all CLASSIC signs of RI. If it is still eating at all at this point, it is because it is still in the earlier stages (hopefully).

The fact that you are asking about how to make a sufficient thermogradient and don't have a thermometer or temp probe isn't too promising with regards to the setup being optimum/sufficient either.

Yes, high 80's F, not celsius. You need to monitor it accurately on both ends of the enclosure. one far end needs to be in the high 80's F on the cages FLOOR SURFACE (not above in the air), and the opposite far end ambient air temp can be 70's. But right now you have to MAKE SURE it stays in enough warmth as I mentioned to help the snake's natural metabolism fight the on-coming infection.

Be VERY careful about heating the cage and the whole thing becoming TOO HOT and killing your snake. You have to put the heat mat under a small portion of the far end and monitor the temps accurately before the snake is placed inside. Right now though, it should be forced to stay in the warmer 80's as I mentioned........but use caution and do not assume what the temps are. I cannot stress this enough. It all depends on the material of the cage, amount of ventilation it has, the size of the cage, and outside ambient temps of the cage as to how to tweek it to achieve this. It is far more difficult to achieve a wide thermogradient in a small enclosure.

Anyway, I'm only trying to help your snake with all this stuff.......good luck!


cheers, ~Doug
Click to expand...

Right, I don't know if it's because it's 2am now, or that it's something else that I feel utterly drained and confused about this. Or maybe the exotics trade in my area of the UK is made of crooks and swindlers, or maybe, even, I'm just the worst keeper in the world. Lord knows. Anyway, here goes, a massive post with all my inner working w/e;

I brought 'her' back to the original place of purchase, tarantulabarn in Lancing, UK; explained the problems I had and the high and low of it was - her mouth was opened and there was no sign of infection...according to them.
Now, her mouth was a healthy pink - with the tiniest amount of saliva.

They had given me, or in this case, not given me relavent information in the first place, so I'm not going to go on the information given a second time. I just thought it would save me time etc etc, it probably hasn't. I have never seen the inside of a snakes mouth before but the saliva, although not thick of stringy, didn't sit right with me.

At my earliest convenience, I will be taking her down to an exotics vet for a full check-up, or a close and trusted exotics specialist, whichever gets back to me first, and I will go from there.

So far, I've done most, if not everything, somewhat wrong at the moment, and it's somewhat demoralising, considering I was not the one who caused her present condition and all I'm attempting to do is find out what could be the problem and bring her back to full health.

So, I'm ending on;
I'm doing my very best for her, and have been since the second I bought her and decided, for myself, something wasn't right. So instead of leaving the possible problem, I came to ask for a little advice and insight, which, thankfully, I got.
As stated before, it's an ongoing procedure and will be sorted in due time in as many steps as I need to take.
I did not cause this, I'm only trying to stop it.

Anyway, it's 2:15am, I'm exhausted.
Thank you all and goodnight.
 
I wish your snake the best. And I don't think anyone blames you, so you can rest without worry of that.

The symptoms just lean some of us to think it is a respiratory infection, perhaps not being properly diagnosed. It's easily cured if caught early, and either way -I can tell the snake is in good hands!
 
TwinBlades said:
on threads where the snake hasn't already been tested negative?
Click to expand...

The snake has not been seen by a doctor of veterinary medicine, exotic or otherwise, therefore it's not been tested negative.

This snake needs to see a real vet.

Desertstrike did not create any of the problems going on with this animal. I will bet my house not a single person who replied this thread thought otherwise.

Sometimes, if read in a condescending tone, simple advice can sound contrite and nasty. Take a minute and breath. Approach it with a different tone and you will see there has been some really good advice posted. All of the posters have been wanting to help so far.

If you read everything as a nasty attack in your mind, then everything will sound like a nasty attack no matter the intent.

Not everyone is out to get anyone.

If we did not care, and did not want to help, why on earth would people keep posting with advice?

Everyone breath, there is zero use for anyone to freak out over a simple miscommunication on the internet.
 
Chip said:
I wish your snake the best. And I don't think anyone blames you, so you can rest without worry of that.

The symptoms just lean some of us to think it is a respiratory infection, perhaps not being properly diagnosed. It's easily cured if caught early, and either way -I can tell the snake is in good hands!
Click to expand...

That's right, nobody is blaming the OP for this at all. We are just wanting to help the snake get better. Some of the posts might seem somewhat abrasive (mine?). But I only typed all that out because we want the snake to get better as soon as possible. :)


cheers, ~Doug
 
BloodyBaroness said:
The snake has not been seen by a doctor of veterinary medicine, exotic or otherwise, therefore it's not been tested negative.

This snake needs to see a real vet.

Desertstrike did not create any of the problems going on with this animal. I will bet my house not a single person who replied this thread thought otherwise.

Sometimes, if read in a condescending tone, simple advice can sound contrite and nasty. Take a minute and breath. Approach it with a different tone and you will see there has been some really good advice posted. All of the posters have been wanting to help so far.

If you read everything as a nasty attack in your mind, then everything will sound like a nasty attack no matter the intent.

Not everyone is out to get anyone.

If we did not care, and did not want to help, why on earth would people keep posting with advice?

Everyone breath, there is zero use for anyone to freak out over a simple miscommunication on the internet.
Click to expand...

Bloody well said Bloody! ;)


cheers, ~Doug
 
My adult ghost corn snake had a popping sound when he would breath. I could feel it when I held him. I opened his mouth and it looked pink and didn't seem odd to me. I took him to the vet to get checked out and he ended up having an RI and an infection in his mouth from substrate cutting into the roof of his mouth. I would of never guessed the infection and thought the popping might just be from extra skin due to him being close to shedding. He got antibiotics by injection for 10 days. Just thought I would add my experience, even tho you might think something is ok or something else, you dont know for sure until a professional vet checks them out. Unfortunately people who work or even own a pet store isn't considered a medical vet. Even the most experienced reptile keeper can miss illness in their collection. That is why we all recommend a trip to the vet over self diagnoses or even trying to found out what is wrong with your scalebaby on a internet forum!

Seems to be a lot of drama trying to be had in this thread but I can tell by everyone who has posted that they are individuals that care deeply for their scalebabies. Who only want what is best for the snake in question.

I wish you the best with Lil M and she recovers fast and lives a long happy life with an owner that only wants the best for her.
 
DMong said:
Bloody well said Bloody! ;)

cheers, ~Doug
Click to expand...

Thanks Doug. :)

Let me tell the OP why I am so insistent on why Marley needs to see a vet. This is not meant to scare, or be doom and gloom, it's just a real, honest account of why you do not play around with a potential RI or breathing issues.

I had been monitoring my oldest ball python, Catherine, for a couple of weeks because of some funky breathing. She still acted like herself, so I brushed it off as a possible RI developing and raised her temps a bit to head it off.

This past week was unreal busy at work, so I did not have as much time with the animals as I like. Sunday evening I checked on Catherine and the light clicking and popping sound had turned into full on open mouth breathing.

She was rushed to the emergency vet, and one xray later, she was diagnosed with a tumor in her lungs. I would have bet anything it was a simple RI, but no, right there in black and white was a tumor.

Catherine was suffering and I had wasted time because I was certain it was nothing serious. I was very very wrong.

If your pet has an possible illness, it's our job as responsible keepers to get them seen as fast we feasibly can. It's better to see a vet and get all clear from a medical professional, than to assume.

The reason all of us have been so passionately posting is because we genuinely care for, and are concerned for the well being of Marley.

I lost my best buddy ball python of 12 years. I will never make the mistake of assuming again.
 
So the 'check up' wasn't by a vet? I don't know anything about the shop you got her from but seeing as they didn't even get her morph right I personally wouldn't trust them on a health assessment. Hopefully the vet visit will be good news, fingers crossed for you and Marley.
 
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