• Hello!

    Either you have not registered on this site yet, or you are registered but have not logged in. In either case, you will not be able to use the full functionality of this site until you have registered, and then logged in after your registration has been approved.

    Registration is FREE, so please register so you can participate instead of remaining a lurker....

    Please be certain that the location field is correctly filled out when you register. All registrations that appear to be bogus will be rejected. Which means that if your location field does NOT match the actual location of your registration IP address, then your registration will be rejected.

    Sorry about the strictness of this requirement, but it is necessary to block spammers and scammers at the door as much as possible.

i need some advice help :(

If i had to try feeding the snake again would another regurg kill him? cause i really wish to solve this myself since we don't have reptile vets. i was gonna try to use a pinky head this time instead of half a pinky for the regurg protocol
 
Hallie said:
Edit: Definitely don't feed twice a week. That doesn't give the snake's system time to digest and get rid of waste between feedings. A healthy hatchling should be fed, at the most, every 4-5 days (I feed every 5 for hatchlings and some yearlings, every 7 for subadults, every 10-14 for adult females, and every 14-21 for adult males).
Click to expand...

Why do females get fed so much more than males?
 
DarkSmoke I would still try to take a poop sample to a cat & dog vet like Kathy said and they can test it for parasites or infection, and you would not even have to take the snake in with the poop.

As for starting regurge protocol again, IF you are going to try a solid again and not a liquid(although if it was my snake I would be doing liquid diet right now), then I would suggest:

1) Keep your snake on paper towels if you are not already, this will make it very easy to see when the snake poops or regurges. It may also make it easier to tell if it is a poop or a regurge, when there is no substrate mixed in or stuck to it.

2) Get some NutriBac for that poor thing, the natural good bacteria that is supposed to be in the snake's stomach is probably almost non-existent by now and the natural bad bacteria is likely raging out of control. Out of control bad bacteria could cause more regurges and/or undigested food to be passed out the vent when the snake tries to poop. Even if the shipping to Malta is more than the product, I would find a way to get it, I have seen the NutriBac have a very positive effect on 4 snakes that I have acquired, so to me I feel it is well worth it. Or as Kathy had mentioned before, try using human probiotics.

2) Try the head, but not before at lest 10 days without food and preferably not until the snake has had NutriBac or human probiotics.

Good luck as always.


@ Jase82 females, esp those who will be breeding need to have a bit more weight on them to prepare for breeding, due to the physical demands of egg production, egg laying, they also shed twice during the egg making/laying process, and some will double clutch( lay twice in one season), this all greatly reduces their size and health, so a good heavy, heathly, firm not fat female is better. Males just provide the seed.
 
"Why do females get fed so much more than males?"

Because females lay eggs, and it takes a lot out of them.



Unfortunately, there is no way anyone can tell from afar what the exact condition is concerning your snake. There is just no way to diagnose and give an accurate prognosis, EVEN if a reptile vet was answering this post. And unfortunately, I don't think we have any reptile vets among our members, lol!

We can only speak in generalities based on past experience, not on what is going on with your specific animal and situation. I wish I could be of more specific help, but the recommendations I wrote earlier are the best thing I can think of for the situation you have described. I can't really think of anything to change or add, based on what I have read here. It is possible that something else could work as well or better than my suggestions, but it is just not possible to know that through email or forum posts. You will just have to read everything here (and elsewhere, if you have other sources), and based on your own judgment and ability, do whatever you think is the best you can do.

I hope you are able to bring her around - good luck!
 
well thanks everyone for the info up to now, i will call some vets tomorrow and see if they can do the poop test and how much it will cost. i will also call my father and see if he can get me some human probiotic since he works at the hospital. tough i think will do the poop test i don't think i'll take him to the vet for advice since there's no vet as far as i know sepcific to reptiles on malta (and i highly doubt it)
 
Seamus they call the poop test a fecal floatation. A dog and cat vet would be able to do that for a snake without a problem. That would at least give you an idea of what might be causing the problem.

Kathy has given you some really good advice. But like she said you can only do what you can do.
 
You are more likely to find probiotics at a health food store than a hospital.

Your cat and dog vet can consult with a herp vet via phone or Internet if they need to prescribe a treatment.

Hope it works out!
 
Look for Acidophilus & Bifidus you should be able to get it as a combination in a capsule form that you could then open and mix with water, then draw up into a syringe and give to the snake.

It will be in the refrigerator section of a health food store as it has to be kept in the fridge. It is the one I would recommend Kathy may know of a better one.
 
There are many species of human probiotics. Some brands come in a mixture of species, either in powder or capsules which contain powder. Since nobody knows which species might help herps, I would suggest whichever brand has the most species in it, hoping that some will help. I am not sure that anyone can answer that question, though. I have asked several reptile breeding / keeping vets about herps making good use of mammalian species of probiotics, and they could not give me an answer, either. So just get the most variety possible.
 
Good to know Kathy, in case for some reason I run out of NutriBac and you are incognito and I can not get any.
 
morning everyone, i wanted to say that last night blaze was on the hunt :S this is more making me think that it wasn't a regurg. if i had to feed him today since its feeding day would there be a risk of death?
 
Whether it was a regurge or undigested feed pooped out, there's still a problem if Blaze can't fully digest half a pink properly. Hunting behaviour is no indication to go by, personally I'd stay with 1/2 pink after a 10 day wait.
 
ok i'll wait 10days, give a pinky head and in the mean time i'll try to aquire some probiotic. if this doesn't work , i'll visit the vet.
 
That's a good idea Seamus. Guys, is there any specific way you have to collect the poo for a fecal? IE does it have to be fresh, substrate free, etc?
 
For a poop sample my herp vet asked me to collect it as fresh as possible, if it was on substrate that was fine, then to put it in to a plastic baggie and refrigerate until I took it to them.
 
is it a problem to give my snake a longer period then 10days without food beforge giving him the pinkie head? dunno maybe it will be better.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top