• Hello!

    Either you have not registered on this site yet, or you are registered but have not logged in. In either case, you will not be able to use the full functionality of this site until you have registered, and then logged in after your registration has been approved.

    Registration is FREE, so please register so you can participate instead of remaining a lurker....

    Please be certain that the location field is correctly filled out when you register. All registrations that appear to be bogus will be rejected. Which means that if your location field does NOT match the actual location of your registration IP address, then your registration will be rejected.

    Sorry about the strictness of this requirement, but it is necessary to block spammers and scammers at the door as much as possible.

pro and cons of buying and older snake

imo (which probably doesnt count for too much yet) an older snake would be better for a starter snake, you wont have to worry about it being a trouble feeder and adults are usually pretty mellow compared to younglings. my snake was five years old when i got him. i just think it'd be easier for a beginner. (sry if someone else already said this, i just read the question, not other ppls responces)

I still think that all the fun is in dealing with these problems, as it is these that make you say that you've raised the snake.
 
I am also raising 3 human boys...
I can definitely do without the problems...it would be just as rewarding for me and I would probably live longer as well:bang:
 
For future reference...if a snake has a bit of retained shed as the OP states (ie. not on eyes or tail tip) should you apply a bit of Neosporin or the like to avoid a possible infection until the next shed?

If I read this right, if the snake has a few patches of retained shed, skin, I would just give the snake a bath, or just have a damp cloth and allow him to run through it. This tends to remove any dry dead skin on the snake thats bee left over from a shed.
MN has some really dry air here in the winter and at times I have to help a snake shed.
 
Nanci,
Yes I agree:) Although at over 10 pounds they felt like I was birthing adults:eek:



If I read this right, if the snake has a few patches of retained shed, skin, I would just give the snake a bath, or just have a damp cloth and allow him to run through it. This tends to remove any dry dead skin on the snake thats bee left over from a shed.
MN has some really dry air here in the winter and at times I have to help a snake shed.


Thank you...and we do have some seriously dry air...I am flaking all over the place myself (oops... too much information:eek1:)
 
Yes it would be stressful, but could you imagine the pain???


As someone who's going to be imminently delivering... I don't think you can imagine any of the pain...

Anyway back on subject. These snakes aren't even *that* old. With either of them you'll still get to see them grow up. And I am certaintly going with the firm belief that getting a well established snake for your first one ever is definatly the way to go. I got nagini when she was 8 months old, and even though she was only 24g I felt a lot more comfortable handling her intially then the hatchlings. Now that I've been raising her (up to 220g now) an adult I just *now* have a hatchling and I'm not as worried about "messing" him up because I've gone through most basic husbandry trials and tribulations with older snakes first.
 
Thanks alot everyone, I've decided to buy the 14 mo. old Okettee, my wife likes that she's more relaxed...I like that too.
On a different subject: Is a 20 gal reptile terranium a good sized when she's full grown, or should I try to get a 40 gal?
14 month old, what kind of mice would she be eating?
 
As someone who's going to be imminently delivering... I don't think you can imagine any of the pain...

Anyway back on subject. These snakes aren't even *that* old. With either of them you'll still get to see them grow up. And I am certaintly going with the firm belief that getting a well established snake for your first one ever is definatly the way to go. I got nagini when she was 8 months old, and even though she was only 24g I felt a lot more comfortable handling her intially then the hatchlings. Now that I've been raising her (up to 220g now) an adult I just *now* have a hatchling and I'm not as worried about "messing" him up because I've gone through most basic husbandry trials and tribulations with older snakes first.

Wow, my snake must be living in luxury. He is 3 months old and weiging in at 22g.

I think I sort of missed out on the "get an older snake as your first one" when I got mine. He was a little less then a month old I think.
 
Well, I dont see why a 40 gal would be bad, as long as you provide hiding places. I have heard that 20g longs are the smallest option for an adult corn.
 
A 40 would be luxurious. A 20 would be adequate. See what her personality is like, if you have a chance. Some snakes just like to hide, always. Some snakes like to roam around.
 
Wow, my snake must be living in luxury. He is 3 months old and weiging in at 22g.

I think I sort of missed out on the "get an older snake as your first one" when I got mine. He was a little less then a month old I think.


Which is why your snake weighs so much.
She spent 8 months on a matinence diet.
 
Now, what size mice you think she'll be eating at 14 months?
Do I have to provide calcium in the form of powder to my corn?
 
For the most part your average corn snake keeper does not give any suppliments. Occasionally some of the breeders here will as breeding takes a lot out of the females.

But no it's not like with lizards where you tend to have to supplement almost every meal.
Without seeing the snake though it's hard to say what size mice she should be eatting.

As displayed by me and patm earlier he has a 3 month old snake who's already 20 something grams where as I got a slower fed snake at 8 months old and was still only 20 something grams.

If you get a scale though a great way to judge feeding size is by using Roy Muson's Munson feeding plan.
http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50106

But if you don't have a scale the general rule of thumb is not to feed something more than 1.5x the width of the snake, and if it doesn't leave a bump after 24hrs the prey could stand to be larger.
 
Back
Top